Montag, 28. März 2016

(HSM16 #1-6) Brunswick! Finished!!

Finally it is done (and photographed)! My very own 18th century Brunswick! And i love it! How could I not? It has a hood! It has long sleeves! It has a good amount of pretty buttonholes and buttons! It is so over the top as well as simple and practical! Okay, enough enthusiastic babbling, judge for yourself ;-)

Yup, I changed my face again. #MasterOfMimicry :P

The (Historical Sew Monthly 2016) Challenge: fits into each of the first six challenges. The current challenge is #3 Protection but #1 Procrastination, #2 Tucks and Pleating, #4 Gender Bender, #5 Holes and #6 Travel also work.
Material: georgeous babyblue polyester satin, a small amount of unbleached IKEA cotton to line the hood and make the unseen parts of the waistcoat, some pieces of ugly sturdy fabric to line the waistcoat fronts
Pattern: Jacket: J.P. Ryan "Pet-en-l'air / Robe à la Francaise", Waistcoat: trial and error, Petticoat: c'mon...
Year: 1760s-1770s
Notions: buttons covered with satin, extra strong thread to sew the buttonholes, hooks (and thread loops) to hold the jacket fronts in place (I'm not a fan of pinning)
How historically accurate is it? If we imagine a very lazy 18th century amateur seamstress who doesn't care about pretty stitches or perfect lining and just wants to get a new garment done... it's okay. I read that a Brunwick can be very personalized and that there's a great variety in style and design. At least the Pet-en-l'air pattern seems accurate to me (although for some reasons I completely skipped the lining. I must have forgotten it? I can't remember.). I decided to not trim the hole thing. 1st, because that is beyond my patience. 2nd, because I think the colour itself is so bright, shiny and eye-catching that it looks best without an overload of frilly trimming.
Hours to complete: A LOT (it's all sewn by hand)

First worn: february 2016 to take photographs. And to feel pretty sitting on the sofa watching TV. Yes, I did do that. I love this outfit.
I wear: chemise, stays, prequilted petticoat, petticoat, waistcoat, jacket
Accessories: American Duchess Kensington shoes, mittens, a small vintage apron as a cap o.O
I plan: The sleeves are very thin, just a layer of satin, no lining. I plan to make a habit shirt to wear under the waistcoat and jacket for warmth. At the moment it is possible to wear mittens over the long sleeved waistcoat for warmth, which I really like. I also want to make a stomacher so that the Pet-en-l'air jacket could be worn as itself for more formal occasions. That'd be 2 in 1 - saving time, fabric and money! (already been done by Couture Mayah)
Total cost: Perhaps 50€ ? including thread. lining fabrics from stash

It was very windy today... But the outfit is very pleasant to wear. The mittens kept my arms warm as well :) The Pet-en-l'air has hooks on the inside front which hook to thread loops on the waistcoat front to keep the Pet-en-l'air closed.

The hood is ridiculously big. But look at the cap! It is an apron! (another #MasterOfMimicry) I still don't have a pretty cap but I found the apron in my room, tried it and - voilà!

some more pictures with explanations...

Waistcoat back. The back is made out of plain cotton and adjustable in size to make it fit better. Only the visible parts are made in satin.

Buttons covered with fabric on the left, 2 out of 11 handstitched buttonholes on the right
Waistcoat lining. It is... ugly. I'm pragmatic. I don't aim for making the inside as pretty as possible as long as the thing looks good on the outside.
And it looks so good!

Now I just have to make the habit shirt, a pretty cap, a stomacher before April 1st...

Keine Kommentare:

Kommentar veröffentlichen