Mittwoch, 8. Oktober 2014

Everything's Coming up Roses


First one by Ethel Merman (what a name!). Great, remarkable voice. From the 1959 Broadway musical "Gypsy: A Musical Fable".


Second one is a cover by Bernadette Peters for the TV-Musical-Show "Smash!". Okay. I like the original better, though.


Third one: A 1987 song by Black with the same title but different lyrics and all. Nevertheless, I love 80s music and this song's pretty good!


And that's it for today. Some music and the mantra that everything will be okay: 
Everything's coming up roses!

Montag, 29. September 2014

Pink ribbon on green taffeta

Entirely handsewn: My version of Yekaterina Nelidovas green jacket with pink ribbon trim.
I had ribbon in three widths: the broad ones are 4cm, the 2,5cm ribbon is sewn on fold to hem the edges, for the zig-zag fake-stomacher i used 1,5cm. The lace is polyester - stiff and therefor a bit itchy BUT it was just 1,65€/m and looks decent!
//Komplett handgenäht: Meine Version von Yekaterina Nelidovas grüner Jacke mit rosa Bändern.
Ich hatte Band in drei Breiten: das breiteste ist 4cm, das 2,5cm breite Band habe ich zum Versäubern um die Kanten geschlagen, das Zick-Zack-Muster auf dem Pseudostecker ist mit 1,5cm Band genäht. Die Spitze ist aus Polyester - steif und deswegen kratzt sie auch ein bisschen ABER sie hat nur 1,65€/m gekostet und sieht gut aus!

Dienstag, 16. September 2014

Nelidova Dress: Skirt and Bodice (cleverly cheated)

The skirt is easy to make, since there is barely shaping support, so I do not describe the sewing process.
//Der Rock ist einfach, vor allem da keine formenden Rockunterbauten vorhanden sind, also gehe ich nicht näher darauf ein.

The bodice wasn't difficult, too. Nevertheless, working trial and error there were some challenges, mastered. I took the JPR caraco pattern, which I knew fits me very well, and altered it. I.e. I made it shorter to be a jacket and not a knee-lenght caraco.
//Das Oberteil war auch nicht schwierig. Selbstverständlich gab es kleinere Herausforderungen, die ich durch meine übliche Vorgehensweise des Ausprobierens an einem Probestück bewältigte. Ich habe den JPR Caraco Schnitt genommen, von dem ich wusste, dass er mir gut passt, und abgeändert. D.h. ich habe ihn kürzer geschnitten, damit es eine Jacke wird und kein knielanger Caraco.

Back piece, stomacher, front piece.
I also changed the sleeve cuffs to match the picture of Yekaterina Nelicova.
//Ich habe außerdem die Ärmelaufschläge dem Bild von Yekaterina Nelidova angepasst.

Bodice - no trim yet


"Just because we use cheats doesn't mean we're not smart!"  
[Moldy Peaches - Anyone else but you]

Now for the closure I figured out a lazy, but well-working and quick solution: (yes, I know, it's basically plain cheating. But the whole dress is cheated. It's polyester in the end!)
Instead of using hooks and eyes I used hooks and ... staples! They are much faster attached than sewing every single eye on. And most important: they are thin and so easily hidden by the overlapping fabric. #Genius
//Für den Verschluss vorne habe ich mir nach einigem Überlegen eine sehr faule, aber gut und schnell funktionierende Lösung ausgedacht: (ja, es ist geschummelt. Aber das ganze Kleid ist geschummelt, es ist immerhin Polyester!)
Anstatt Haken und Ösen zu verwenden, nahm ich Haken und ... Tackernadeln! Die sind viel schneller befestigt (einfach durch den Stoff tackern), als Ösen (elendig langes Annähen). Und am wichtigsten: Da sie so schmal sind, werden sie durch den überlappenden Stoff wunderbar verdeckt. #Genius


yes, staples! | Jawohl, Tackernadeln!
And in the end a picture of the ensemble so far. The pink ribbon is but pinned to the skirt.
//Zum Schluss das Ensemble soweit. Das rosa Band ist bisher nur auf den Rock gesteckt.


Sonntag, 3. August 2014

Poesie: Immer ungelegen (Eugen Roth)

Immer ungelegen

Ein Mensch, gemartert von der Hitze,
Fleht dürstend nach dem ersten Blitze.
Ein Wolkenbruch wär selbst gesegnet:
Zwölf Wochen lang hat's nicht geregnet.
Jetzt endlich braut sich was zusammen:
Es schlagen die Gewitterflammen
Schon in den Himmel eine Bresche -
Doch, wie?! Der Mensch hat große Wäsche!
Nur heute, lieber Gott, halt ein
Und laß nochmal schön Wetter sein!
Der Tod, der Gläubiger, der Regen,
Die kommen immer ungelegen:
Rechtzeitig zweifellos an sich -
Doch nie zur rechten Zeit für Dich!

Eugen Roth (1895-1976)

Donnerstag, 24. Juli 2014

What to wear under the Nelidova dress?

So... What to wear under the Nelidova dress? Stays, of course. But how about skirt support?
//Also... Was trägt man unter dem Nelidova Kleid? Klar, Mieder. Aber unter dem Rock?

The pose is not the best. Neither it's from the side, nor from the front. Plus it's 1773, just the transition time between pocket hoops and hip / bum rolls. From this ankle she poses I can't tell what the shape of the skirt exactly looks like.
//Sie steht sehr ungünstig. Weder ist es ein direktes Seitenprofil, noch eine Vorderansicht. Außerdem schreiben wir das Jahr 1773, genau die Übergangszeit von Poschen zu Weiberspeck und Pokissen. Aus dem Winkel in dem sie steht kann ich nicht sagen, welche Form der Rock hat.





Pocket Hoops? YES because the hips look bigger than normal. NO because there seems to be too much volume in the front and in the back. So... 
Hip Roll? YES because her rump looks padded somehow. NO because even the front seems to be padded, too.

//Poschen? JA weil die Hüften ziemlich weit aussehen. NEIN weil auch ihre Vorder- und Rückseite weiter als normal erscheinen. Also... 
Hüftrolle? JA weil ihr Hinterteil relativ gepolstert aussieht. NEIN weil auch vorne mehr Volumen zu sein scheint.

Solution? Quilted under petticoat! Very much like this one from American Duchess:
//Lösung? Ein wattierter Unterrock! So ähnlich wie der hier von American Duchess:
via American Duchess

Pre-quilted fabric, about knee-lenght tied around the waist. EZ. It is rather warm. Anyway it gives a shape that seems to work.
//Steppstoff als Meterware, etwa knielang, um die Taille gebunden. Er ist zielich warm, kreiert aber die passende Form.


Samstag, 21. Juni 2014

Yekaterina Nelidova 1773 dress


One of the first pictures I stumbled over during basic research was this:
//Eines der ersten Bilder, über das ich während meiner frühen Recherchen stolperte, ist dieses:

Yekaterina Nelidova, dressed as Serpina in the short opera "La serva padrona", painted by Dmitry Levitzky in 1773.


I still can't decide if I desperately want this dress or if I totally hate it, but I decided to make it!
I ordered 4m of green polyester taffeta some weeks ago and as soon as I have time (next week I hope) I will start making further plans and adapting a pattern.
//Ich weiß immer noch nicht, ob ich es unbedingt haben möchte oder es furchtbar hässlich finde, aber ich habe mich dazu entschieden, es zu nähen! Ich habe 4m grünen Polyestertaft bestellt und sobald ich Zeit habe (hoffentlich nächste Woche), werde ich mich näher mit dem Schnitt beschäftigen.

For now, this is the fabric:
//Hier ist erstmal der Stoff:

no camera flash //ohne Blitz
with camera flash //mit Blitz
Yep, it's not the exact colour, but it was cheap. And let's be honest: Which fabric company sells muddy green-greyish taffeta?
//Er hat nicht dieselbe Farbe wie auf dem Bild, aber er war billig. Und mal ehrlich: Welcher Stoffhersteller verkauft schon schlamm-grün-grauen Taft?

Dienstag, 17. Juni 2014

Poesie: Schöne Junitage (Detlev v. Liliencron)

Schöne Junitage

Mitternacht, die Gärten lauschen,
Flüsterwort und Liebeskuß,
Bis der letzte Klang verklungen,
Weil nun alles schlafn muss -
Flußüberwärts singt eine Nachtigall.

Sommergrüner Rosengarten,
Sonnenweiße Stromesflut,
Sonnenstiller Morgenfriede,
Der auf Baum und Beeten ruht -
Flußüberwärts singt eine Nachtigall.

Straßentreiben, fern, verworren,
Reicher Mann und Bettelkind,
Myrtenkränze, Leichenzüge,
Tausendfältig Leben rinnt -
Flußüberwärts singt eine Nachtigall.

Langsam graut der Abend nieder,
Milde wird die harte Welt,
Und das Herz macht seinen Frieden,
Und zum Kinde wird der Held -
Flußberwärts singt eine Nachtigall.

Detlev von Liliencron (1844-1909)

Blumeninsel Mainau, Bodensee

Donnerstag, 12. Juni 2014

American Duchess "Kensington" 18th century shoes


(German and pictures after the cut)
Recently I decided to finally buy myself a pair of American Duchess historical shoes! I had wanted one for years but I always hesitated: Quite expensive, shipping from America to Germany - duty taxes?, sizing... Here's how it all began and turned out:

Measuring shoe size
I measured my shoe size (like three times - to be sure), following the instructions on the website.
As expected, my measurements did not fit the size chart perfectly. My feet are rather wide. I decided to base my choice rather on width than on lenght. Wider width = longer lenght. But one can easier stuff a shoe that's too long than make it wider when it is too narrow.
I decided on a US size 10, being a size 40-41 in Europe, according to the chart. In Germany my usual shoe size is a 40, which is a UK size 6.5 in German shoe shops (and a Euro size 39 according to the American Duchess size chart. That puzzled me, but I did rely on the centimeter information.)

Order, shipping, custom office
I ordered a pair of American Duchess "Kensington" shoes with Cavendish buckles in gold on May 16 and payed instantly via dedit card. I recieved a friendly e-mail with a tracking-ID to track my parcel.
Shipping duration was predicted 3-4 weeks. I was happily surprised when I saw my package sent to Germany on May 21 according to USPS.
Here in Germany the national postal service DHL proceeded my shoes. On May 22 they reached the responsible custom office. The custom office sent me a notification including information where and when to get my parcel and what to bring (eg. the document they sent me).
My mother visited the custom office to get my shoes. She had to answer a lot of questions (shoe material, production details etc.. Silly German bureaucracy) and pay the so called import turnover tax. Circa 20% of the total cost of my order (shoes, buckles, shipping costs).
My order cost 200.85$, which is about 148€. No customs duties had to be payed because in Germany orders below 150€ are duty free! Yay!

Unpacking and fit
Seeing the shoes for the first time was a delight. They look plain gorgeous as pictured online. And even the shoe box is super pretty - light blue and solid. The buckles came in a light blue velvet bag.
The shoes fit just right! I was so very relieved when I tried them on and they fit.
Attaching the buckles was a critical moment. I felt so scared ruining the perfect smooth ivory leather by piercing holes into it! But without the buckles the shoes would be useless. I could convince myself to "destroy" the perfectness, followed the instructions on the American Duchess website and succeeded. This picture was also quite helpful:

I love my Kensingtons. Not only do they fit but they are also extremely comfortable.
All in all: Good benefit-cost ratio, although the shipping costs and taxes (and the buckles, too!) made the shoes more expensive than they acutally are.


Freitag, 30. Mai 2014

Jeanne d’Arc - Songs

Today is Jeanne d'Arc's day of death. The heroine of France was burned on a stake on May 30 in 1431. That was 583 years ago. No decadal anniversary or such, but a good occasion to present a small collection of informing songs about that remarkable girl!

Her story in short:
Jeanne d'Arc (1412-1431) was born during the Hundred Years' War (England vs France) as a child of wealthy farmers. As a teenager she had religious visions telling her to save France. She led the troops in the battle of Orléans and they won. Due to treason she was captured, imprisoned, excommunicated and executed. Only a few years later (France had won the war), 1456, the king of France withdrew the verdict and Jeanne was rehabilitated, though, nevertheless, dead. In the early 20th century she was declared a saint of the catholic church.

Her story in songs:

 
Horrible Histories - Joan of Arc
(pastiche: Jessie J - Pricetag)
 
historyteachers - Joan of Arc
(pastiche: The White Stripes - Seven Nation Army)
 
Epic Rap Battles of History - Joan of Arc vs Miley Cyrus


PS: All information taken from Wikipedia and the songs. May contain mistakes. (And, yes, sorry, I love online videos, especially when they teach facts in a funny way!)

Donnerstag, 22. Mai 2014

Erdbeeren ♥ Nail Art

Rote Nägel waren mir zu langweilig.
Daher: mit Gold kleine Ovale aufmalen (die Samen in einer Erdbeere) und mit Grün kleine Zacken auf die Nagelspitze malen (Blätter).

Überlack ist nicht drauf, deswegen ist bei einigen Nägeln auch schon ein bisschen was abgegangen. Aber egal.
Bei vielen Bildern im Internet fand ich die Blätter an der Nagelbasis(?) - also auf der anderen Seite, wie ich es gemacht habe (aber es gibt auch genügend, die die Nagelspitze lackiert haben).
Einerseits hat es was mit persönlicher Präferenz zutun, andererseits hinterlässt mein roter Nagellack überall Spuren, wenn ich versehentlich an Wänden, Büchern oder anderswo langschrabbe. Um weniger Spuren zu hinterlassen - Grün auf die Spitzen.



Ich hatte das noch nie versucht, bin extrem glücklich über das Ergebnis und habe einige Komplimente bekommen.
Heute soll der bisher wärmste Tag des Jahres werden. Im Moment weht noch ein laues Lüftchen... Abwarten. Und mich über meine Erdbeernägel freuen :D

Mittwoch, 26. März 2014

Let's take down a pinwheel bun? Wrong thought!

I love trying new hairstyles, especially buns, cause I like my hair out of the way. A few days ago I found this amazing "Pinwheel Bun"


I think it looks very nice and I gave it a try.
I started at about 13:45h and finished around 14:05h - which I consider as a good time, doing it on myself and for the first time. It turned out not as neat as in the video. I liked it but not as much as I wanted my hair to be the whole day. And so I thought: Let's take it down.

That's where the trouble began. My hair is almost at classic length (dear, that term's even used in Wikipedia! I thought it was unofficial...). And maybe that's too long or I just started taking it down the wrong way. But I made like one little mistake, messing up the sections and it was all screwed up! I became totally frustrated and after nearly 60 minutes of pure despair I decided to cut my bun maker (aka hair donut) in half. (6€, come on. Still a better option than pulling / tearing / cutting my beloved hair!) Nevertheless: 
NEVER EVER AGAIN!

Now it is 15:30h. I am going to classically english braid my hair - after detangling it. Let's see how long that will take...

Sonntag, 16. März 2014

Historical Sew Fortnightly #5: Bodice. Caraco

Dear Ladies and Gentlemen,
I proudly present a new garment!



... which looks a thousand times better when worn. It fits surprisingly well into the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge 2014, finished just the day before the deadline. I do not participate officially, but nevertheless, here we go:


The Challenge: #5 Bodice

Fabric: unbleached IKEA "Bomull" cotton. Self-printed in brown, red and grey using a sponge-stamp. My plan was to kind of put the paintings from the Church in Wyk auf Föhr onto the fabric and make a gown matching the church... *weirdo*

Pattern: J.P. Ryan - 18th century Caraco. The pattern is really good! Detailed instructions and the finished jacket looks very neat.

Year: 1770s

Notions: Hook&Eye Tape. -- Best. Invention. EVER!

How historically accurate is it? It's half handsewn (lining is machine sewn) and the pattern was made after some extant examples. The fabric is okay, so seems the fact that it's printed, though the paint is obviously not historical. The fabric's pattern imitates the church and the church is more 13th than 18th century style... But if we call it a costume, it could be 3/5 correct ;-)

Hours to complete: Many! I think it took me 5 to 7 hours to print the fabric, another one and a half to iron it to secure the paint. The Caraco per se was sewn in less than a week.

First worn: 14. 3. 14 at a dancing ball :-)

Total cost: Fabric was the cheapest, 1€/m. Incluing the paint and hook&eye tape, maybe 35€.


Und weil's so schön war, das ganze auf Deutsch:

Dienstag, 4. März 2014

Poesie: Hier bin ich zu Haus (Verfasser unbekannt)

Der Mensch braucht ein Plätzchen,
und wär's noch so klein,
von dem der kann sagen:
Sieh her, das ist mein!
Hier leb ich, hier lieb ich,
hier ruhe ich aus.
Hier ist meine Heimat.
Hier bin ich zu Haus.

[Aus dem 19. Jahrhundert]


Samstag, 1. Februar 2014

Late Victorian Ensemble - Finished

Yay, so today it's the "finished!"-picture-post.

front view (btw, can someone date that mirror-dresser-thing in the background?)

back view (bad illumination editing.)
Note my hairstyle, I'm proud of it although it's just a knot bun and zillions of hair needles.
Yes, I know, the back of the bodice is far from perfect. Many silly wrinkles and the collar's kinda crooked. Well, first try though :-)

Skirt:
Like bodice, made without pattern. It consists of 5 gores - one in the front (grey), two in the back (also grey) and a black velvet one on each side, because I had not enough grey fabric. But it looks fancy, doesn't it? It is worn over a very ugly and not very poof-y skirt that (I can't imagine) my mother once had worn in the 1980s or so. But I didn't fell like much skirt support was needed for this era and style.

And to end, a pretty picture in front of a lovely cupboard!

edited with a simple filter programme to look old ^_^

yo guys, have a nice february!

Sonntag, 26. Januar 2014

Turning a men's shirt into a Victorian bodice, Part 2

Sewing the pieces together, generally not too difficult.
But first! Some annotations:

#collar
I cut off the shirt's collar and covered it with bodice fabric (folded as it was, so two layers of shirt-fabric - I have no picture though).

#shoulder seams
Do check / alter the shirt's seams before sewing bodice!! My Dad's shirt's shoulder seams were quite on top of the natural shoulder, and after re-sewing the pieces they were, like, short above the top front edge of my corset! Back then, shoulder seams had to be on the back. Sadly the fabric was already cut and there was nothing left over, so...
I stitched another, fake shoulder seam on the back, ending up with two seams looking surprisingly decorative as underlining the requested broad shoulder area. Lucky turn!

#hem
Make sure to have a smooth hem line. It may look awry when layed flat on the ground. But there are many curves and bulges on a human body (created by natural shape, corset, skirts etc.) that won't accept a geometrical hem line. For that, pin it on yourself / a good dressform (I don't have one).

#cuffs
You could use the shirt's cuffs and cover them, like the collar. I didn't, I just made a regular hem at the end of the sleeves.


Yeah, there we go. Note that both, shirt and bodice fabric, were sewn together, using the shirt as lining. When everything is ready, you might want to have some (more) darts or other alterations. Do whatever you want until the bodice fits you!

See the seams? The upper one is just for decoration.

inside. not pretty. I don't care :D

Donnerstag, 16. Januar 2014

Transformation: Men's shirt becoming Victorian bodice, Part 1

Hola!
I already posted that kind of teaser picture of my 1890s dress, which I call "New Year's Eve Dress", although I did not manage to finish it in 2013.Here's what I did between Christmas and New Year's Eve:

Challenge: Step into a new period and make a Victorian taille / bodice
#without pattern
#low cost
#one (first) try, 'cause fabric's limited
#make it look fabulous!

Quite challenging, indeed. Solution:
*Use your Dad's old shirt that he just wanted to trash, and re-cut it!
*Lace yourself into your super-comfortable-although-bought-ready-from-an-online-shop-corset and
*train your brother (aka skilled sidekick) in pinning!

*take bad selfie-pics in front of the mirror (cause your bro did enough nice things for you that day)
If you're lucky and your sidekick is talented, like mine, it turns out like this:

remember, this is like an inside-out view. If you turn it around it will look good, but it's not necessary, for this is just the lining of our bodice.

oh dear, poor pose! :D

Yeah! Next steps:
-ask your (a bit more talented) Mum to check and re-pin it
-sew and cut off left over fabric
-mark sewing-lines, cut the shirt into pieces and use them as pattern, like this:






The shirt will later be the lining.

Cut fabric and sew (c'mon, you should all know how it's done).

Next part is coming, I have to go to university now! Have a great weekend.

Freitag, 10. Januar 2014

Montag, 6. Januar 2014

Nussknacker On Ice - Rezension

Am 4. Januar 2014 besuchte ich in Braunschweig in der Stadthalle die Show  
"Nussknacker On Ice".
Ich mag die Musik (übrigens komponiert von Tschaikowski, 1892 uraufgeführt) und Eislaufen, also waren die Karte ein perfektes Weihnachtsgeschenk.

Es waren ziemlich wenige Leute da, dabei war die Show so gut!

Das St. Petersburger Staatsballett ist angeblich das einzige Eisballett der Welt. Meiner Meinung nach sollte es viel mehr geben, denn die Kombination von Ballett und Eislaufen bietet sich mehr als an!
Ein Vorteil des Eiskunstlaufens gegenüber dem konventionellen Ballett ist übrigens folgender: Beim Ballett muss man, um die Bühne einmal zu überqueren, viele kleine nervige Tippelschritte oder ein paar epische Sprünge machen. Auf Schlittschuhen gleitet man in Nullkommanichts sehr elegant von links nach rechts.
Die Tänzer/Eisläufer waren wunderbar, die Choreographie war sehr schön.

Die Kostüme... Hach, die Kostüme! Ein Traum! Farbenfroh, geschmackvoll und angesichts der Tatsache, dass es Tanzkostüme waren, historisch richtiger als erwartet! (Ich kann nicht anders, ich analysiere sowas quasi intuitiv^^)

Zur Musik? Naja, vom Band eben, aber von guter Qualität.

Bühnenbild, Beleuchtung etc.: Schöne Hintergrundbilder, die die stimmungsvolle Atmosphäre eines weihnachtlichen Festsaales vermittelten, welche durch die Beleuchtung verstärkt wurde.
Ganz fein waren die Federn, die beim Schneeflocken-Walzer von der Decke rieselten und sehr effektvoll angestrahlt wurden!

Dauer: zwei mal 45 Minuten plus 20 Minuten Pause. Und sehr kurzweilig.

Fazit? Ein sehr schöner Abend! Ich kann die Show sehr empfehlen.

Hier noch ein paar kurze Ausschnitte in einem Video, das ich gerade fand:

Mittwoch, 1. Januar 2014

Neues Jahr, altes Projekt

Frohes Neues Jahr! 
Happy New Year! 
Bonne Nouvelle Anneé!

Ich hatte mir vorgenommen, nach Weihnachten ein Kleid anzufangen und es noch 2013 fertigzustellen. Leider hab ich es nicht ganz geschafft und mein neues Jahr begann mit einem ganzen Nachmittag Knopflöcher-Umsticken (was mir zum Glück immer Spaß macht, wieso auch immer).

Hier ein kleiner Vorgeschmack auf das 1890er "Silvester"-Kleid.
Ein Hoch auf verschobene Deadlines!








Und nun wie jedes Neujahr: "Das Traumschiff" im ZDF. Neu 2014: Sascha Hehn als Kapitän. In HD. :-)